Top End 3

 Our last evening in Darwin was spent chatting with a couple of Kiwi ex pats- Gary  from the Marlborough Sounds and his wife from Upper Moutere. As Ngai Tahu ,Gary had some really interesting views on the aboriginal situation here and it was good to talk  with someone about it without inadvertently offending or intruding. 

When we packed up we said goodbye to the people behind us and asked them where they’d come from – 5 minutes up the road! I guess at $40/night this is the perfect family holiday – pools, playground, pedal carts, bouncy pillow thing and the ice cream truck who tinkles past each afternoon.

Driving SW from Darwin we headed to Litchfield National Park- only problem was that the road which should have been a short cut to our camp proved to be non existent.Which meant that we had to drive a long loop though the whole NP before we reached the camp! On the way through we checked out giant termite mounds, beautiful waterfalls and lots and lots of tourists- funny but we don’t seem to put ourselves in that category. At one point we took a kiwi shortcut to avoid the crowds and had to climb over a quite a high (for me) fence.

We still expect national parks to have mountains , at least this one has an escarpment. There were a few controlled burns happening, as we drove along in a blue haze of gum smoke. We’ve met fire kites- a bird a bit like our harrier hawk but with a special talent. In a bushfire they catch other critters who are escaping and have discovered that you flush more out by lighting another fire. So they pick up a burning stick and drop it in some dry grass and wait for the victims to rush out! How smart is that?

When we did eventually reach our campground  near Batchelor there was a shady spot for us, homemade ice cream and of course, resident crocs (but at least these are freshwater and apparently don’t usually attack ) .The advice is to walk quickly away in a straight line and don’t panic 🙂 I’m sure that is some  kind of Aussie joke. 

The next day we explored the NP- have to say that the signage was very confusing .We were thwarted on our planned 4WD picnic almost immediately as we came to a deep , wide river crossing with crocs. Turned around and went off for a lovely bush walk instead up to a series of waterfalls, then found another longish 4WD to the “Lost City” huge random stacks of rock which look a little like a bombed out city 🙂 On the way back Robbie decided to do his civic duty and tow a fallen gum tree off the track, the the confusion of passing ozzies who probably thought we were planning to tow it home for firewood.

Home for a cold drink and a siesta, listened to the fireworks after tea.

Next morning down to Katherine , where we spotted a live baby croc in a tank at the camping shop! Up to Katherine Gorge which is hard to get a good look at unless you join a tour, and was very hot and very touristy. We couldn’t quite face that camp so drove back down and headed off west on the Victoria HW.Luckily we spotted a sign to Manbulloo Stn where we found a shady spot for the night. Possibly the only campground we’ll ever stay at which has a solar farm, miniature goats, water buffalo and a resident accordionist who plays on a stage(old truck) by the dump station every night. And he has a poodle with dyed  pink ears assisting him, which looks resigned and slightly embarrassed.

On the next day on west to Judburra/Gregory National Park, where we camped at a DoC site, very peaceful and hot. A Willy Wagtail visited us while Robbie cooked our tea on the fire. Lots of big Boab trees around us. Next day was across to the Keep River NP, up through dramatic escarpments  and past lots of Brahman cattle grazing beside the road. We drove out into the NP to the Jarnem campsite , a lovely spot in the bush , though I wouldn’t like to be out there in a bushfire!

This morning we got up early and drove across the NT-WA border, stopping at the quarantine station so they could search the vehicles for fruit and veg. WA is very vigilant as it has few horticultural pests and doesn’t want them.

We visited the Kunnnunura I site to find out more about the Gibb River Rd(google it! ) as we’d pretty much decided it was beyond us. But while we were talking with the very helpful staff the couple behind us said they’d just done it- we had a long talk (they were towing a caravan too) and they gave us updated road and river crossing info, which has been hard to find. And lots of helpful hints re campsites etc.So in the morning we’ll drive out to Pentecost crossing (love the name) wait for low tide and hopefully head over to this 800km iconic track. It may take us about 10 days to get across as we’ll be going quite slowly. Fingers crossed.

Jan 🙂